Eating in Paris: My food diary 食在巴黎: 一日五餐法國餐

Paris

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Breakfast  // 法式早餐

Remember THIS scene in the last episodes of Sex and the City where Carrie moved to Paris for Aleksandr Petrovsky? Filmed in Hôtel Plaza Athénée, this stylish and romantic hotel has been epitome Parisian luxury since 1911. I’ll confess, my original plan was breakfast at Le Cing, the more affordable way to enjoy a meal at Four Seasons Hotel George V, but since I didn’t book in advance we could’t get a table so we came here which was just 5 minutes away, I’m glad we came instead!

一生人總要去一次豪華五星級法國酒店食一餐! 不過一人港幣過千食一個lunch 真的不捨得,所以折衷的選擇是來個早餐! Sex and the city 也來取影的 Hôtel Plaza Athénée 是巴黎其中一個最歷史悠久的酒店,另外 Four Seasons Hotel George V 也是不錯的選擇。

Lunch// 午餐

Paris is a city made for picnics, there are so many beautiful parks where you can just sit down and enjoy a sandwich and a bottle of wine, get fresh fruits from your nearest market, you don’t even need a blanket! Just sit on the grass and enjoy the nature .

試過這麼奢侈的早餐,午餐就省一點在公園野餐吧! 巴黎有無數的公園開放給公眾野餐,特別午飯時間你會見到很多法國人坐在公園草地食lunch。我們在附近的市場買些三文冶和水果,吃得簡單又方面。

On Saturday, we had a yummy lunch at les Gastropodes inside the flea market Le Marché Dauphine . One thing I love about eating in Paris is that most of the menu is very vegetarian friendly. Since my Tanya is one, that made it much easier for us to look for places to eat.

如果你會去上文提及的跳蚤市場 Marché aux puces de Saint-Ouen,可以試試其中位於Le Marché Dauphine 市場入面的餐廳。環境很舒服和好好食!

A more fancy lunch option is my favorite macaroon shop in the whole wide world – Ladurée ! Although we also have Ladurée now in Hong Kong but it only sells macaroon and other confectionery, so we came out here to try their set lunch with main dish and dessert (oh sooo yummy!). Their branch at Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore (home to most fashion brands in Paris) has beautiful decor that makes you feel like being in a mini palace!

其中一餐食得富貴一點的是 Ladurée,雖然香港現在也有分店,但只售macaroon之類的點甜。想不到他們的主菜也不俗! 蛋糕更加不用提, 好食到好似上了天堂!

Afternoon tea//下午茶

Thanks to Lane Crawford, we now get to taste the amazing pastries from the 112 year-old Angelina inside their IFC store in Hong Kong. But of course, you’ll agree the tiny space inside this Hong Kong franchise doesn’t do its justice when you have been to their signature tearoom in Rue de Rivoli. My favorite cake is Saint Honoré , a crispy puff pastry and caramelized choux pastry filled with vanilla cream pastry and a light whipped cream on the top.

一天下午我們去了Angelina朝聖和去滿足一下食甜品的慾望。香港寸金尺土,IFC 連卡佛的Angelina 分店細得可憐,來這間著名的巴黎店試試原裝正版吧!

Dinner//晚餐

Swiss might be known for their cheese fondue, but French does it best for their beef fondue – cubes of beef cooked in hot oil and then dipped in various tasty sauces like honey mustard, béarnaise, hollandaise etc. Usually a fondue set includes baked potato, small salad, vegetables and dipping sauces. I had it a few times when I lived it Paris and I missed it so much so we came back again for more this trip!

芝士火鍋你可能試過,但法式牛肉火鍋聽過沒有? 將一小塊生牛肉放進滾油去炸,再點不同醬料,超好食!

Le Paradis du fruit has been around for a long time in Paris, at least when I was still in a student here 9 years ago, this was our favorite place to go for a yummy meal with affordable price, so of course I really wanted to re-visit this place again this trip. With 9 branches in Paris, you can easily find one in different popular areas like Les Halles, Opera, Saint Michel etc.

巴黎連鎖餐廳Le Paradis du fruit 對我來說充滿回憶,因為以前讀書時常來光顧。Menu 有很多健康選擇,這裡最出名食甜品。

We found this cozy French restaurant Le hide near Champs Élysées on tripadvisor. Quote from Timeout Paris: “Ever since it opened, this snug bistro has been packed with a happy crowd of bistro-lovers who appreciate Japanese-born chef Hide Kobayashi’s superb cooking and good-value prices.”  Their duck foie gras terrine comes in a generous size and super delicious, highly recommend this place!

重點推介位於香榭麗舍大道附近的 Le hide 。由日本主廚主理的法國料理獲 Tripadvisor 食客高度讚揚,絕對值得一試! 我們點了的鴨胸和鵝肝頭盤,帶子和煎魚主菜以至甜品都好好食! 而且價錢合理, 配上一杯白酒為一日緊湊的行程劃上完美的句號。

Supper // 宵夜

We ended our last day in Paris after long long walk outside a full house cozy French bistro Au Sauvignon to enjoy some yummy snacks like smoked salmon with toasted Poilâne bread , yummy!

位於巴黎左岸的 Au Sauvignon 提供巴黎新派小食,行程最後一天在這裡作結

A little extra: Belgium sweets 同場加影: 比利時特色甜點

Originated from Brussels, Aux Merveilleux de Fred now have shops in New York, London, Geneva and different cities in France. Their signature merveilleux (=marvelous) is a small cake that consists of a sandwich of two light meringues welded with whipped cream which has been covered with whipped cream and dusted with chocolate shavings. It is THE most amazing food I’ve had this entire trip!

這次歐洲之旅加插了半天比利時遊,一定要分享我們在布魯塞爾的新發現! 這件叫做merveilleux (法文意思是令人驚歎的) 甜點是由奶油包著兩塊蛋白酥而成,外面再灑朱古力碎,絕對是這旅程讓我最驚歎的甜品!

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Nobel’s guide to Paris 遊走巴黎 – 10個你未必到過的好地方 ( Part II)

Paris

 

續上回…

4) Treasure hunting in Europe’s largest flea market// 逛全歐洲最大的跳蝨市場

Opening from Saturday to Monday, Marché aux puces de Saint-Ouen is said to be the largest flea markets in Europe with more than 2500 stalls. I love furnitures and antiques, so I was really excited to visit this market featured in Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris! Since the flea market hosts 15 different markets, we focused our time at Marché Malassis (toys, vintage cameras and furniture), Marché Dauphine (furniture, ceramics), Marché Biron (expensive lighting &furniture) and Marché Vernaison ( various fashion, prints and kitchenware).

我超級喜歡跳蝨市場! 自從去過倫敦著名的 Portobello market 便愛上了行市集 。被譽為全歐洲最大跳蝨市場的 Marché aux puces de Saint-Ouen 由15個不同主題的小市場組成,每逢星期六日一開放。因為我鍾情家居擺設,所以挑選了幾個專門賣古董和傢俬的市場逛逛。我們行了一個下午 (包括午饍 )也只是走馬看花的逛了四個主題市場。如果真的要仔細尋找心頭好,我想至少要一個週末的時間!

5) Visit a jazz café //感受咖啡館和爵士樂文化

Near the flea market, we stopped by  la chope des puces and enjoyed live Jazz Mamouche performance. The music and ambiance was so quintessential Parisian style, it was one of the best moments of the trip!

在巴黎每一個角落都可以感受到這裏濃厚的咖啡館文化。我們離開跳蝨市場之際, 聽到對面街上傳出音樂聲,忍不住去看看。原來是咖啡館  la chope des puces 內樂隊表演爵士樂,我們隨心坐下來叫了一杯咖啡來欣賞表演 。這種名叫 Jazz Mamouche 的爵士樂在法國廣泛流行,是經典的巴黎音樂。這裏很多人特意過來 ,坐上一個半個小時 ,邊聽音樂邊嘆一杯 expresso,過一個輕鬆的週末。

6) Spend an afternoon in Le Marais //在瑪黑區溜達一個下午

To feel like a real Parisian, my absolute favorite place is definitely Le Marais which is the hippest part of the city (popular for gay crowd & art lover). My new found this trip is the Nixon store which just opened last October where I shopped this watch. Another new love is Bonton Coiffure , a 3-storey chic kids department store which include a kids’ hair salon and photo booth!

瑪黑區是全巴黎我最愛的一個地方,比起城中的擠滿遊客的景點,這裡的小街小巷,讓你完全感覺到地道巴黎人的氣息。這裏有不同特色小店,咖啡館和餐廳,值得在這裏花上一個下午。順帶一提,香港潮媽一定會愛上3層樓高的童裝店Bonton Coiffure !

7) Shopping at Colette// 到Colette概念店朝聖 

For fashion lovers, we have Lane Crawford in Hong Kong, 10 Corso Como in Milan, Barneys in New York, as for Paris? Colette is your mecca for everything fashion and lifestyle related! The three floor concept store contains a gallery, a bookshop and a cafe. By the way I almost lost my breath when I ran into my fashion idol Daphne Guinness outside the shop omg she is so fabulous!!!
熱愛時裝的朋友不得不來Colette朝聖, 這是巴黎的連卡佛,這三層樓高的概念店內還包括了書店,咖啡館和畫廊。

8) Strolling in Rue de Sevrès //到巴黎左岸逛高級時裝店

At the other side of La Seine, Rue de Sevrès in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés area is home to numerous fancy French fashion stores like the Hermès store housed in a former swimming pool (can you believe it?!) and Le Bon Marché, the 1st department store in Paris, and my favorite.

遠離巴黎春天百貨 ,老佛爺這些遊客必到的購物點! 來位於巴黎左岸的Rue de Sevres ,感受一下真正逛高級時裝店的體驗。就算不買也要來參觀一下由古蹟泳池改建而成的 Hermès 專門店!另外別忘了要到巴黎第一間的百貨公司 Le Bon Marché 和其附屬的食品店 La Grande Epicerie 買手信。

9) Visit an exhibition// 參觀一個時裝/藝術裝展

There are always cool exhibitions going on inside Grand Palaise, the place where Chanel hosts many of its fashion shows every year. This trip I went to see Jean Paul Gaultier’s exhibition which was so eye opening!

來到時裝之都 ,參觀時裝展是常識吧! Chanel 每年都會在巴黎大皇宮美術館舉行時裝秀 ,而平時這場地會定期有不同展覽。今次適逄時裝界壞孩子 Jean Paul Gaultier‘s 的回顧展,當然不可錯過!

10) Picnic in a Park // 在公園草地野餐

One of the most typical Parisian things to do in summer is picnic in a park. My no. 1 recommendation for picnic spot in Place de Vosges which is very popular among Parisian.
我已想不對上一次在草地野餐是幾時! 在夏日與一班朋友在陽光下野餐是巴黎熱門的消閑活動,我推荐很受巴黎人歡迎的孚日廣場,脫下雙鞋大字型睡在草地上, 感受青草的香味!

A little extra: Visit Paris Saint-Germain F.C., Arena// 同場加映: 巴黎聖日耳門足球場

To be honest this is not the most exciting place on my list (well at least for me), but it was my boyfriend’s only request this trip since he is a big football fans so we spent a morning visiting Parc des Princes, stadium of PSG football team. For an alternative, check out their official gift shop at Paris Saint-Germain Champs-Elysées store.

作為男友這次旅程唯一要求的景點,我們去了巴黎聖日耳門足球場參觀。平日球場提供導賞團,不過我們到了才發現球場正在維修不對外開放,所以我們只在紀念品店內購物。如果你也是球迷,可轉移到香舍麗大道的官方紀念品店購物。

Nobel’s guide to Paris 遊走巴黎 – 10 個你未必到過的好地方 ( Part I)

Paris

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It was almost a decade ago when I moved to Paris for a year to study French in school. Paris was such a magical place for me it made me dreamt about all the things I want to do when I grow up. As I was turning 30 this May, I realized I’m not where I thought I’d be at this point of my life, I decided to take a trip back to where all my dreams began, to spark my passion again and search for new directions in life. I therefore set a mission to explore a different side of the city I’ve never been to before and I was so inspired by all my new explorations! So here I want to share my special guide to Paris with you:

真不敢相信在巴黎讀書已經是9年前的事。當年還是個大學生,巴黎給我帶來夢想和對將來充滿期盼。現在回想起當時對未來生活的憧憬實在有很大的距離,很多想做的事情但沒有達到,所以今年生日我很想回到巴黎去重捨當日的夢。因為在巴黎生活過一年,對這個城市已很熟悉,所以今之特意尋找一些未去過的地方,希望可從而有新的靈感和啟發! 以下就來分享一下今次旅程幾個很特別的地方:

1) Staying at a Parisian home// 巴黎民宿

I was so excited to arrive my first ever airbnb home! I always love to stay with a local friend when I’m travelling because you get a taste of how the local people live. As my dear friend Tanja from Vienna flew in for a long weekend to celebrate my birthday together, I had chosen this cool and spacious apartment in Montmartre which has two nice bedrooms.

想當年與同學合租apartment, 今次回去當然也要感受一下! 因為我的好友Tanja 從維也納飛過來巴黎一個長週末陪我慶祝生日, 所以我特意挑選了這家位於蒙馬特並很有特色設計的兩房一廳airbnb. Tanja比我先到, 我一到埗已有一個mini 生日蛋糕在等待我, 真的很感動!
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Few days later we moved to another apartment in the left bank after Tanja left. I knew I had to rent this place the second I spotted it on airbnb because it is so unique and one of a kind! The apartment is located inside the courtyard of a residential building surrounded by a lovely garden. It used to be a printing factory and the owner has revamped it into a two-storey house. I just love the ambiance and interior design of this place!

幾天後Tanja 要回去維也納所以我們搬到另一間位於巴黎左岸的住所。 我挑選住所除了考慮位置和租金以外,最重要的就是室內設計。 這間住所是小巴黎很少有的特色房子。 以前本來是印刷廠 ,屋主將它改建為兩個獨立房子。因為樓底高,所以房子內還多建一層。 外面被一個小花園包圍著,很有特色!

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2) Visit Shakespeare and Company // 拍攝日落巴黎的古老書店

One of must see places this trip is Shakespeare and Company in the 5th arrondissement . As a fan of Before Sunrise trilogy, I’ve wanted to visit this book store for so long! This is the book shop where Jesse did his book readings and met Celine again at the sequel Before Sunset. Inside the 2-storey book shop, there’s a lounge for people to read and a small corner that allows people to sleepover. When we were there someone was playing piano it felt so romantic like being in the movie!

如果你是電影日落巴黎的戲迷,這地方你一定不會陌生! 這間在1951年開的二手書店是巴黎很受歡迎的景點。

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3) Spend a day at Fontainebleau // 到巴黎南部的楓丹白露一天遊

I’ve wanted to visit Fontainebleau ever since I fall in love with impressionist painting when I was a student. This was the place where my favorite painters Auguste Renoir and Claude Monet used to come and do their paintings.  Just an hour away from Paris, I felt like I went to a different era stepping into Fontainebleau.  We spent our Sunday morning walking around Château de Fontainebleau and afternoon picnicking and napping under the trees in the forest nearby. It was the most relaxing and laid back Sunday I’ve had in a very long time.

大部分人去巴黎都會去凡爾賽宮一日遊 ,今次我們則選擇了距離巴黎一小時以外的楓丹白露 。如果喜愛印象派畫的人應該聽過這名字,因為很多19世界印象派畫家都來楓丹白露的森林練習油畫。 楓丹白鷺位於巴黎南部市郊 ,由巴黎坐火車出發加一程接駁巴士到楓丹白鷺堡壘大約個半小時。這裏風景比我想像中更為嘆為觀止! 堡壘當然不能與凡爾賽宮媲美,但其大自然景色實絕不比下去! 星期日的下午當大部分的香港人在巴黎名店血拼的時候 ,我們花整個下午遊閒的在草地上野餐和午睡,真正體驗法國人的生活態度!

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